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Day04-Going Down (South that is!), Thu, Dec 2, 2010

With a sad heart, we leave without Bob.

Start & Stop:  McAllen, TX to Estacion Manuel (Ursulo Galvan)

Day’s mileage: 319 miles (513 km)

Ride time:  10:30 AM Central (McAllen TX), through 5:30 PM Mexico time

Route:  McAllen, TX, 23 St/International Blvd crossing, Tiburcio Garz Zamora, Pharr Aduana (Immigration, customs), Mexico 97 south to I80 through San Fernado, Soto La Marina, Estacion Manuel (Ursulo Galvan).

Weather:  70 degree F, Mexico blue skies and some winds.

Fuel: $2.60/gal in McAllen TX

Lodging: Hotel El Fuentes, Manuel, MX

Money Exchange:  $1 USD =  11.96 Mexican Pesos

Dean: We got Lisa’s battery at 8AM.  The battery shop was 4 miles from the hotel.  The battery guys said to cross the border at 23rd St.  Returned to the hotel.  Said goodbye’s to Bob as he departed.  We regrouped on the computer obtaining Manuel MX and Ciudad Victoria GPS points as possibe days-end-goal then headed for the border.  We crossed at the 23 St/International Blvd crossing only to find out customs/immigration WAS CLOSED!!!!.  RATS!  We were directed to the Pharr International Bridge crossing (8 miles east) to get our Mexico papers and our motocicleta permits.  This involved wandering along the Mexcio side border west approx. 8 miles (if you knew what you were doing) but more if you don’t.   We ride back to the border crossing at the Pharr International Bridge and take a side street to the Mexico Aduana (Customs).

Dean & Lisa and our invisible riding buddy at the Pharr Aduana.

Lisa take all the paper work and goes in to get our immigration papers and our vehicle permits.  I watch the bikes.  She need photo copies of passport, drivers license, US insurance, certificate of title, $2.  She comes out in 45 minutes with our paperwork.  She announces that since we are in Mexico for only 6 days, there is no charge!  We pack up and leave.  We ride 30 miles to a road-side checkpoint “Revision Aduana” on Mexico 97.  When we pull in they ask for our papers.  We did not have the “Vehicle Temporary Import” document!!  Back we go to the Pharr Aduana to stand in line for another hour to talk to the same guy to get our “Vehicle Temporary Import” document which cost 448 Pesos ($36.28 USD).  Lesson learned, always verify immigration AND “Vehicle Temporary Import” documents are each border crossing!   (Hey we’re new at this!)

We ride the 30 miles back to “Revision Aduana” arriving at 1PM.  Everybody has a good laugh at the stupid Americano’s and we are waved through.  It’s approx 250 miles to Ciudad Victoria and 300 miles to Manual MX.

The Hotel El Fuentes in Manuel, MX

The road’s were all in excellent shape.  Two lane roads were actually four-lanes.  Most driver would pull to the right leaving us a good 6′-8′ between the white line and vehicle.  We were moving at Mexico speed passing all the 18-wheelers and citizens were passing us!!  Posted speeds were 110 kph (68.3 mph) and cars were passing us like we were standing still!

Lisa: Well, life is nothing if not exciting. If I were to tell you 1)I was surprised and 2) I was fine with it when Higdon told us he was out, then I’d be lying.  I knew his eye was bothering him and not improving but more than that, Kneebone had bailed and I’m not sure Bob was willing to put up with these 2 rookies for the next two months. Deep Breath…and keep walking.

Here’s the deal: Dean and I have been planning this for too long to bail now. I think in the back of our minds we sort of planned to just do this no matter who else could make the trip and now was the test. Of course, my casual attitude toward learning some Spanish since we had El Senor, Higdon, is going to bite me in the butt, but it is what it is. I can surely laugh at myself and that trait will come in handy now, I’m sure.

Dean has told you the nuts and bolts of the day and the worst part was actually starting. Alone. We changed money, recounted it, sat in the parking lot and strategized and then…just went. What the heck. Of course it was a modified cluster but in the end it was NBD (No Big Deal) and actually relatively painless.

Riding south from the border I can honestly tell you I have never seen more signs. I don’t know what half of them meant but they looked really important. And yet, for all those signs, there are clearly no laws.  None.  Dude, you can go whatevertheheck speed you want, pass indiscriminately and do pretty much anything you like as long as you follow the apparent *rules*: slower traffic, stay right and make sure to stay out of oncoming traffic.  Yup.  That sums it up.  The mighty wee was pegged somewhat past a Higdon 1 veiner when we passed some sort of important guy with a Christmas tree on his car.  Yeah.  No, he didn’t care much, if at all.  He did flash his blinker – his left turn signal – and we were appropriately chastised for at least 20 seconds.

While the riding was easy and fast, what struck me more about the day was the Mexican people.  I don’t know what I expected but living not too far from Tijuana will jade one.  Heading south from the border I was struck by the sadness of the military state there.  I seriously can’t tell you how many machine guns we saw in the convoys of military trucks we passed, packed with masked 12 year olds, all heavily armed.  Ok I’m old and they were probably 19 but go with me on this.  They all waved at us as we rode by and it was oddly sad.

As we got away from the ugliness of a border town (is there a redeeming quality there?) the countryside and towns got so much cleaner, obviously very poor but well taken care of.  The people were so friendly and open and it struck me that most of this country is a bunch of normal folks just trying to make it through.  The children all waved at us and the dogs barked as we tried to avoid the chickens and goats in the road.

The Copas’ were so thoughtful to share the waypoints of their accommodations and we checked into Hotel Fuentes in Estacion Manuel tonight.  Very spartan, clean, good internet.

Thanks for all your notes and comments – we love getting them.

More soon…

Dean enjoying Mexico's finest!

18 comments to Day04-Going Down (South that is!), Thu, Dec 2, 2010

  • Brother Tom

    Finally…..You are truly on your way!!!! Have a great trip and just remember too many cooks can spoil the broth, so just being two might just be a blessing in disguise. It sure is great being able to track your adventure! Have a load of fun.

    Bro Tom

  • Steve H.

    Love the jackets, is that gringo day glow? :-) Maybe your Spanish will get better by the end of the trip.

  • Jeff E.

    Thanks for taking us along with you!

  • John Parker

    Good on you guys, Lisa and Dean for following through on your dreams. Its too bad Kneebone and Higdon didn’t make the ride, butt I believe your trip will be that much more an adventure. Thank you so much for letting us travel vicariously with you.

  • Bob k

    I’m glad you made it this far and finding out the people in the town you were in were fairly nice. Sorry to hear the two guys bailed on you. But, onward forward my two friends. Stay safe and have fun!!!

  • Hi Dean,

    As you may know – I’ve been down south many times – mostly in a VW camper. The last time was in 1977-78 (?) for a year – as far as Nicaragua where I ran into the Sandinista thing and turned around back north (was headed for Terra del Fuego). It was a fantastic trip and I will always remember it. I wandered around quite a few places in between and although my experience is dated – I do have a feeling for some of the country that you are headed for and would like to know your itinerary as I may have some insights as to what you may want to see and experience and perhaps suggest some considerations for your route.

    Ciao, Cal

  • big steve

    glade to see your still on the move did wonder what happend at the border that was so much fun you just had to turn around and go back LOL be safe down there. This rooky wishes he was going along but for now I’ll just follow you spot have fun.
    Big Steve

  • Karen Van Santen

    Roger’s productivity at the office is really suffering, because he keeps taking breaks to go check the computer in his back office! The staff probably thinks he is suffering from an intestinal problem, but he is just checking on you guys! I just hope he doesn’t forget to get the patients numb before doing their dental work.

  • George Mastovich

    You’ve got the start of a great journey. Mexico is one of those places of great contrasts. Be sure to blog as much as you can about the people you meet. I think a lot of us would like to know more about them. Too bad about Bob and Mike but it’s their loss really. Trust me riding with Bob is not all peaches and cream and it’s best if Mike is there to ride with him.

    gbm

  • Roger

    Good on you guys! Now the real adventure begins. I’m enjoying the ride along, keep up the good work. Lisa, I’m baking kransekake tonight. Hopefully Alan will save a bite or two for you.

  • Heather R

    Thinking of you this morning Lisa. It is stupid cold here and can only imagine what you guys are feeling. Be safe and we are praying for you both . . .

  • Marsha Kaye

    Thanks for taking me along for the ride! What a grand adventure! I am thrilled to be included in your blog.

  • Colin

    Quit complaining, you’ve got invisibuddy! In my imagination, invisibuddy is fluent in 6 languages and is an excellent mechanic to boot! By the way Lisa… don’t try to sugar coat by trying to throw in a “modified” cluster. It’s either a cluster or it ain’t – and you guys were definitely in the midst of a cluster.

  • George Swetland

    Lisa,

    RE: Driving in Mexico. When approaching vehicles from behind, they will often give you a left hand turnsignal to let you know it is safe to pass. Then again, they may be turning left.

    Have fun with it!

    George Swetland, AKA: El Guapo

  • Ray D.

    So very sorry to read that Bob and Mike could not make the trip with you. Love you both, Bonnie and I are praying for your safe trip and return. Really enjoy your posts. Thank you for allowing us to make the trip with you.

  • Rebecca Vaughn

    Thanks so much for sharing your adventure! Ride safe.

  • michiel kerkhof

    what a great trip thanks for letting us share…wish I could be there…..greets from belgium…BE SAFE!!

  • Menoo

    Wow what a weekend we’ve had in Avalon! Bikers everywhere and the constant whining of their engines. It’s been exciting. Too bad it probably won’t happen again. The Coastal Commision is requiring the city to replant every shrub and bush that was removed for the race track. Sheesh. Watch out for those weeds on the road, Dean. You don’t want the ‘Commision’ coming after you!

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