We met the enemy and the enemy are the Tampico Police!!!!!
Start & Stop: Estacion Manuel (Ursulo Galvan) to Vega de Alatorre, Veracruz
Ride time: 9:30 AM (Manuel MX), through 5PM Mexico time
Day’s mileage: 269 miles (433 km) 2-1/2 hours getting three traffic tickets!!!
Weather: 70 degree F, Mexico blue skies and some winds. Late in the day, overcast with sprinkles.
Lodging:
Fuel:
Money Exchange: $1 USD = 11.96 Mexican Peso
Dean: It was inevitable; today we were escorted to the Tampico Police Station!
Lisa: What can I say?
To go back a bit, once we made our trip plans known to friends and family, more than one well-placed person offered their services in case of an ‘international incident’.. Don’t think that didn’t cross my mind today. Seriously. What. The. Heck.
Dean: It started as a great day. We left Estacion Manuel at 9:30AM thinking we had plenty of time to get to Veracruz, ~300 miles. Google Maps indicated the ocean route on 180 was the fastest 5 hours ~ 60 mph.
Our route took us through the city of Tampico, 45 minutes south. There we were indoctrinated into Mexico culture with the City of Tampico’s finest.
Shake Down #1: As we entered Tampico, there were police standing in the median. We were riding in the center of a three lane boulevard slowly crossing a speed bump (tope). The police made some movement as we went by but didn’t think he was talking to us. Within 30-seconds we were red lighted over to the side of the road.
Motorcycle riders from out of Mexico are clear targets for scamming money! It seems in the city of Tampico, motorcycles are only permitted to travel in the right lane with the buses and 18-wheelers. The most dangerous lane in stop-and-go traffic! Out came the ticket pad and we were chastised for riding in the middle lane. 1,000 pesos ($100 USD)! We knew this was a scam and we tried to talk our way out of it. They kept threatening to take us to the police station. As we mounted up to ride to the police station one of the cops came back to Lisa and said he was hungry! And needed something to eat. Lisa said “So if I give you money for lunch, the ticket goes away?” Si. Lisa pulls out a 20 peso (under $2) and hands it to the cop and he waved goodbye as he and his buddy went to have lunch. This took 30 minutes.
Now we are riding in the right lane with all the buses, 18-wheelers, cargo vans, while traffic moves in the other lanes twice as fast.
Shake Down #2: 4 minutes down the road we are waved over by another Tampico policeman but we are in the right lane riding 15 MPH. It can’t be us! Again a patrol car chases us down with sirens blazing. They ask for our driver’s license and we give them our fake ones. One of the cops asked if we spoke Spanish. Lisa says “No habla espanol”. They point at me and Lisa smarting off says “he can’t even speak English!” (I just found this out about 15 minutes ago but I thought it was curious that no one ever spoke to me, only to Lisa) At that point the road-side chat ended as we were told to follow the patrol car to the station. We follow 4 miles to the police station where we were escorted into a locked compound full of police cars and motorcycles and dozens of Tampico’s finest standing around in their bullet proof vests. It almost seemed like they were waiting for the entertainment to arrive. Once again we were accused of not riding in the far right lane and trying to evade police. Lisa just took over at this point and was having none of it.
We were honored with an English speaking officer who told Lisa, this was our lucky day! An English translator! The following discussion lasted 20 minutes as Lisa explains we did nothing wrong, we were riding in the far right lane at half the speed limit and we did not evade arrest! This is a scam targeting Americans!”
This was again followed by Lisa should pay only $20 USD! Lisa refused! Again they went into a little conference. When it was clear we were not going to pay any more money, they sent us on our way.
Shake Down #3: 15 minutes later, as we rode out of town again in the far right lane, at half the speed of normal traffic, we pass a third Tampico police checkpoint. We are pulled over a third time in 5 miles for our 3rd shake down. Out comes the ticket book. We are asked for our drivers license again. This time I’m the target accused of riding in the wrong lane. When we pointed out they had to cross 3 lanes of traffic to get to us, the infraction changed to speeding which then changed to running a red light. The officer wanted $100 USD. I (not wanting to spend another hour in this town) offered $10 USD. The threat was escalated to If we didn’t give them $100 USD, we would be taken back to the police station. Lisa is unloading on the other 2 cops. I said good, let’s go back to the police station as I put on my helmet The Tampico police officer finally came over, handed back our driver’s license and said … $10! And you can go.
We did not get very far today. And the fun continues!
Lisa: The first time was an inconvenience. The second time was extortion and the third time pushed me over the edge. I found myself yelling in English at a cop who was yelling at me in Spanish. Pretty darn funny in retrospect, especially when he told me I could go and only Dean was getting the ticket. So I crossed over to the other two officers and began yelling at them to call El Jefe NOW – we weren’t speeding, we were in the correct lane and we didn’t run the stop light.
Meanwhile, traffic on the four lane divided road is backing up as all of us are standing in the street talking LOUDLY and gesturing wildly. I can feel my blood pressure rising as I type this but in hindsight it’s pretty funny. Ya know, if they’d just be up front about it and charge $20 per person, I would gladly pay. But the stupid charade, holding up the day’s ride and doing the dance is more than a bit annoying, especially in full riding gear standing on the side of the road in the heat. Oh well, as we say at Casa Landry: Adventure is seldom fun while it’s happening and today was no exception. No biggie, another nice hotel for $20US, a great roast chicken dinner for $10 – life is good. We’ll have to try to make up some mileage tomorrow as head south toward Palenque.
PS: After I called Alan and explained the day’s events because I didn’t what him to read it here first, his only response was, “(long pause) … It will make good blog!” Gotta love that!!
Dean: Todays cultural exchange cost us 2-1/2 hours and $12 USD!
That’s why I like to travel in large groups on beater dirtbikes when south of the border.
I had a relative who retired for a short time to Mexico but came back home because she was the constant target of these traffic scams. It was apparently a daily occurrence,or at least it seemed that way. Let’s hope it doesn’t happen to you again.
gbm
We had zero problems in Mexico although we spent 4 weeks there. From LA to Bolivia the only country where we were targeted by cop scams was Nicaragua — there we were one day stopped 5 times within an hour, basically for nothing. First stop we paid $100, second $20, third $5, fourth I was so angry (due to time loss) that we paid nothing, and 5th the cop asked if we had cigarettes.
I did get a couple of tickets in a few of the countries, but they were well deserved.
Dean, Palenque was one of the highlights of our trip, just BEAUTIFUL. That and Tikal.
Oh my, those poor Mexican cops.
You two look way too good – and in the eyes of the locals – rich! Put an old beat up sarape over your riding suits and cover the bikes with horseshit and twigs – or something on that order… Mexico is probably the worst as far as the Federales are concerned, but you will attract attention all the way if you stay looking too spiffy.
Via con Dios, Cal
Now THAT is a modified cluster!
Quit scaring my wife! She calls me before I read this post to tell me you guys were in danger – crying something about Dean not being imposing enough and she wishes Bob could have gone to help you guys/
Then I get to read the post and when I get to the end I am feeling a bit sorry for the police….
That’s Mexico for you. Nothing but corrupt people, even the law. Hey guys, be careful coming back home. Better avoid that town.
Lisa for El Presidente!
Via con muchos pesos!
And to think it’s only day two of your adventure….and I mean adventure. When Mom and Dad used to leave on their bike I’d always so “Be careful” until one time Dad responded “Why don you ever tell us ‘Have fun?’, which I always did from then on. So have fun!!!!! Tom
I agree with a couple of other posters. When you look like money, people ask you for money. You need to get a little dirt on you and don’t wash your bikes ever.
“A bend in the road is not the end of the road… unless you fail to make the turn.”
The adventure has begun, thanks for sharing, have fun be safe.
R
I’d pay to see the video of that day’s adventures! I can so see it in my head, Lisa gesturing wildly, yelling louder than the cops. Geez, I’m sure she scared the CRAP out of them. Clearly Dean knows the drill and just stands back and watches the show!
Enjoying your blogs, but, so far, can’t say I wish I were with you. It has to get better, so HAVE FUN!
Ahhhh! Brings back nostalgic memories of dealing with Indian cops. Good times! I guess those Mexicano cops need to eat too, but they didn’t stand a chance against Lisa.
Dean, Et Al, When I go to Mexico I make sure to take my Fire Department Badge with me. I am El Capitan de Los Bomberos. Presenting my badge seems to get me out of trouble with little problem. Borrow mine next time.
Note from Dean: We did plan on carrying a badge with us. Bob Higdon was our “badge” officer. When Bob had to bail because of his eye, we forgot to get the badge from him.
LOL! You are Ameri-cans not Ameri-can’ts!!!
I know it didn’t seem funny at the time, but I am laughing my ass off reading this. This could not have been better if it had been planned. I’m sure going through all this was not fun, but I hope you are reading the blog and seeing how darn funny this is when you read it. Thank you for a great laugh today and ride safe.