Ciudad Inka de Machupicchu
Start & Stop: Cuzco, Peru
Mileage: 0 miles. No riding today!
Hotel: Hotel Jose Antonio, $100 USD, including Desayuno and parking
Fuel: 95: $11-13 Sol/gal or $5 USD/gal
Currency Exchange: $1 USD = 2.74 Peruvian Nuevo Sol
Dean: Visiting Machu Picchu has been one of my life’s goals. I was not disappointed. This human achievement in location, design and construction is amazing.
It was raining when we arrived at the main entrance. We climbed straight up to the Guardhouse which has the view of the entire site. Misty clouds were sweeping up and over the site. The visual is breathtaking!
Lisa: So, Machu Picchu….usually I don’t struggle for words but this is different. Let me start by saying that this was in my Yawn category for the trip. Sorry, but it was. I’m not much for wandering around piles of rocks and oohing and aaahing. It’s just not in my DNA. Then let’s preface the actual site visit with the ridiculous and expensive process to actually GET there. First: nothing is easy. Now that that is settled, all the rest makes sense.
We were told to be at the bus station NO LATER THAN 6:43. Okay, being overachievers, we arrived there at 6am. Don’t wanna mess this up. We got on a comfortable bus and waited maybe 20 minutes and then off we went. It was nice 2 hour bus journey, allowing for lots of sightseeing you can’t necessarily do while trying to keep a motorcycle on the road. Details, I know. So we arrived in Ollantaytambo and, like a herd of mooing bovines, mooooved along down the concrete chute toward the gate of the train station.
Each passenger presents their passport and their ticket stub before entering the gate and boarding the train. Until Dean and Lisa that is. Yup, we get up to the front and “Oh Dear, YOUR train does not leave for another 90 minutes!” But, but there is a ¾ empty train 20-feet from us. Hello, is there something I am missing. Well, indeed there is Senora, THAT train is the Upper Class train. Usted has booked the Expedition Train and that is $15 less.” Deep Breath, Lisa, and remember to smile. “Well, Senor, I would be pleased to remit the additional $15 for the opportunity to arrive 90 minutes earlier than scheduled.” A whole bunch of other stuff happened but the end result was ‘Sit There’ and wait for your train.
So things weren’t going especially well but whatever. I bought a cheesy hat because I left my own hat on the hotel bed. Yes, it’s been that kind of day. The train ride itself was quite scenic and passed quickly. We exited the train into Swap Meet Hell. Who thought that going through a maze of swap meet booths while trying to find your way to the ticket office is a good idea? I want to talk to them. In any case, by this time the rain started. Not sprinkling. Raining. Oh yippee. We bought 2 super slick looking ponchos that were not a whole lot different than wearing trash bags except mine was a delightful shade of purple and Joe Cool chose red to match his hat. Yes, we were quite the fashion statement.
So, wearing our baggies, we slogged about to find where to buy tickets. One of my least favorites things here is Effectivo- CASH only, local cash, none of that crappy US Dollar stuff and certainly no convenient credit cards. Nope. Of course I didn’t have 124 soles so me and red baggie boy go up the street to change money and then prance back to the ticket office to find 8 people in line ahead of us, 2 of whom don’t have their passports. So we all wait while they decide if they will be tarred and feathered or pilloried for that major infraction. We finally get the special little half sheets of white paper that are our tickets and head back outside.
But remember, nothing is easy here in Dean and Lisa world.
We asked one policeman and at least a handful of other people and still had no clue where we were supposed to go redeem this most precious of all tickets. We finally were told that we needed to walk somewhere else and buy yet another ticket – the bus ticket to the main entrance. Well, this is just laughable now. How exactly were we supposed to know this? So we schlep over to line up to get on the bus….can you feel our pain. Remember too that we are loooooking goooood.
Dean: Lisa forgot that Machu Picchu is in Peru where the language is Spanish. Since our language skills are more closely related to “pig latin” the ticketing procedure is confusing non-Spanish visitors. Here’s what we did.
1. In Cuzco we purchased a “bimodal” (bus+train) transportation ticket from PERURAIL that includes a bus from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo and train along the Rio Urubamba to the Machu Picchu Train Station (Aguas Calientes). “Expedition” level – $112 USD R/T. We upgraded to the “VistaDome” level ($15 USD) to get back 1-hour earlier.
2. Aguas Calientes is the little town at the base of Machu Picchu. We purchase the Machu Picchu site tickets at the Tourist Office. S/124 ($46 USD)
3. At a different location in Aguas Calientes (little booth along the roadside) we purchase a mini-bus ticket that takes you up the mountain, 8 km, on a switchback dirt road to the Machu Picchu entrance. $15.50 USD
Lisa: Well, the bus ride up is fairly long and up a verrry steep hill. Wow, we thought we were already AT the top when we got off the train. Nope. Not even close. So a short walk to the turnstile where they take your very wonderful slip of paper and finally we are in machu picchu. Following along a rather unremarkable dirt path in the rain is not inspiring. Well, all of a sudden the whole site opens up and it completely took my breath away. All the discomfort and annoyance of actually getting there is sooo gone.
People, if you have not been there, it needs to be near the top of your “Must Do list”. It’s stunningly beautiful. I could seriously sit there all day and just soak it it.
Dean: Tomorrow, we ride from Cuzco to the Peru/Bolivia border and on to La Paz, Bolivia.
Wow! The photos are incredible! Hope to see a slide show when you guys get back!
D&L….too bad you didn’t have Joel with you to serve as interpreter and tour guide! Tom
The trip alone was worth it as you got to use Pilloried and Tarred & Feathered in the SAME SENTENCE. It aint every day that you can do this without breaking a sweat.
However…. Dean’s red hat and authentic Peruvian poncho were well worth the paltry train ticket price for those of us following along at home.
I imagine you two made it into a few photo albums for the turistas, too.
you pictures were magnificent and those alone will make worthwhile Christmas cards.
up till now I thought you guys were nuts…..
now I’m envious.
one more comment –
once I zoomed into the guardhouse photo I noticed that the Old Gal was being shackeled in some sort of ancient Peruvian torture device.
wanna comment on that? Did you forget your passoporto or something?
Saw a deal from National Geographic about Machu Picchu several hundred years ago. It blew me away and I’ve wanted to visit there ever since. Color me green for you adventure on this one.
Now I KNOW you guys got me a cool sourvenir from Machi Picchu — I’m mean with all the vendors at the train station. Spectacular scenery.
I did actually Bill but now that you’ve spoiled the surprise I want you to know that you will look smashing in the purple poncho. Yes, it’s slightly used but it will totally bring out the color of your eyes.
I had a history professor in college that had spent a lot of time at Machu Picchu and he raved about it all the time. It has been on my list of places to visit ever since. Great photos!
Joe Cool is definitely living up to his rep with the cool red color coordination. Glad the RallyMom is feeling better. Great new Sargent Friday hat! “Just the facts, Mam.” It’s so you!
Really enjoying the blog and photos! Thanks for taking the time to keep the peons stuck at home drooling over the all star adventure.
Thanks for giving me another great tale to read on this cold (3′F)and wintery day in Tulsa. I’m getting cabin fever and sharing your story of your visit to Machu Picchu helped. Last weekend I put about 160 miles on the new GS. Riding temps in the mid to high 70′s. Overnight Monday and most of the day Tuesday we had a blizzard leaving us with 14″ of snow. Everything is shut down here-airport closed, no mail, no newspaper, businesses & schools closed, etc. Obama declared Oklahoma a disaster area. Anyway keep the stories coming and hopefully the snow will be gone by March so I can make it to Jacksonville. BTW great PICS too.
Now THAT is awe inspiring!
Can’t wait to get a RED outfit like Dean’s!
Hey now you have some colorful waterproof bags to put over your non-waterproof gear
The pictures were beautiful, but I am sure it is just something else to be there in person! Thanks for taking us along.
Also it is good to see Lisa smiling again.
Hey! Now you have some colorful waterproof bags to put over your non waterproof gear!
The pictures of Macchu Picchu were beautiful! I am sure being there in person is just something else! Thank you for taking us along
Also, it is good to see Lisa smiling again
imagine seeing these photos after hours and hours of shoveling anywhere from 16″ to 30″ of drifted snow. they’re greener than green. i can almost smell the air. thanks for all the photos and great writing.
Gary Cronkhite
Yo,
I have been to Machu Pichu – same trip as you – Vista Dome, the whole deal – but had no idea how the red pancho really pulls the whole photo together in such a stunning fashion!! Hilarious.
Re: that swapmeet – what an S*hole. They tried to give me change with counterfeit cash – it was such a bad fake that once called out, they took it back without hesitation – to be foisted on the next rube apparently.
Cuzco is an amazing place also – chew the cocoa man!!
Machu Picchu is one of the funnest words to say. It is right up there with chimichanga, Bangkok and Cucumonga.
You guys are the true embodiment of WINE-a-picchu. Next time take me as your translator!
You two look cute in your poncho’s. Keep having fun. I will be in Rio Feb 19 through Feb 24. Maybe you will be in the neighborhood then.
Love reading your story. Reminds me of our own visit there…but your adventures were so much more…..difficult. So glad you got to visit and enjoy that remarkable place.
Guys, guys! why didn’t you do the easy thing, and just buy a package trip? Taxi from hotel to train, get given all your tickets in a bundle, experience the zigging and zagging up the mountains, jump straight onto the bus at Agua Caliente and up to the top, then later come down and have prebooked lunch before departing on the train. Easy!!
Wonderful, beautiful, eerie place, though, isn’t it? Would like to go back – to see what colour poncho I get this time! Blue doesn’t suit me!