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Day09-Guatamala, Tue, Dec 7, 2010

Border Crossing #2 – Mexico into Guatamala.

Start & Stop:  San Cristalbol de Casa, MX to Antigua, Guatamala

Day’s mileage: 303 miles (488 km)

Ride time:  7:25 AM San Cristalbol de Casa, Mex 190 south through Teopisca, Comitan, crossed into Guatamala ~10:00AM at Las Champas MX/La Mesia GT 2:48 PM

Weather:  Chilly, 50-60 degrees F

Lodging: Casa Ovaile

Fuel:  $3.10/gal

Money Exchange:  $1 USD = 7.68 Guatemalan Quetzal

Lisa besides the big statue in Comitan.

Lisa: Today was sort of different (there’s a trend developing – *every* day is sort of different, isn’t it?). Anyway, we were out of San Cristobal at 7 and stopped for gas before heading toward Guatemala. It was cold and windy this morning but so crystal clear and beautiful. One thing about this area is people burn things. Lots of things. Everywhere. And Anywhere. Today was no exception and often during the ride the road was covered with aromatic smoke (no, not that), so much at times that it looked like fog.

Leaving Mexico was a breeze: well marked building, lots of parking, signs in English and Spanish, just a short line and boom, we’re outta there. The Guatemala customs office: not so much. It’s about 10 miles further down the road and as we approached it actually just looked like a huge traffic incident around a cheesy outhouse next to some orange cones, people everywhere with pushcarts and wheelbarrows, dogs roaming, multiple busses blocking everyone, horns honking, pedestrians crowding everywhere, flags hanging down across the main street beyond like a carnival but accessed only through a locked barrier.

I was immediately out of my comfort zone but since I was leading and I’m the designated paperwork person, I pretended I knew what I was doing and pulled up to the cones, side stand down.  Everyone in this mess seems to be yelling in Spanish but I heard one English speaking voice saying, “you need to change money first.”  I’ve read a lot about the money changing scams so I was on guard but I had a bunch of pesos I wanted to offload so it was perfect timing.  The nice young man was more than a bit disappointed that I wasn’t changing American dollars and kept asking me to do that.  Nope, sorry, no can do but have some sweet pesos for you, amigo.  Interesting guy too, lived 10 years in Portland, OR, married an Oregonian but now is a money changer at the border.  Who says life isn’t strange? Well, they’re wrong.

This is the gate that is manually raised and lowered to allow vehicles to enter and exit between Guatemala and Mexico.

A uniformed guy came out of the outhouse (actually it was the fumigation office) and told me to go inside the larger outhouse (more like half a single wide – only the best in Guatemala) to pay to have our bikes fumigated.  I was able to use 2Q of my new money, which is about 25 cents, which paid for them to spray some disinfectant on both bikes.  Oh Goody. We then moved our bikes very slowly through the melee to the customs office to start the paperwork for the vehicle permits.  Pretty straightforward, we needed title, drivers license, our exit papers from Mexico, and passports.  A little more paperwork then we walked to the shanty housing the immigration office to get our passports stamped then back to customs to finish up.  Once we were done with that, I took the papers to Banjercito (the bank) to pay 40Q for each bike permit.  Done.

Through most of this Dean has been at the bikes because there were so many people around although there were a lot of guys in uniform hanging out at our bikes too.  Everyone I had to speak to was super helpful and really nice but I was still very uncomfortable with some of the attention we got.  I still need to get used to the fact that Dean and I stick out like crazy here.

Dean: I don’t stick out too much.  Lisa’s the odd-ball here in Central America.  The fact that she’s a woman on a motorcycle stops traffic!

Lisa: We then geared up and pushed toward the locked gates and waited for them to let us pass.  Here I thought that once we got past those gates and the crush of vehicles and pedestrians, things would settle down … HAHAHAHA.  No.  It was crazy getting out of there, just ridiculous, but I suppose we’ll have a lot more of that in the coming weeks.  I like things ordered and planned out perfectly and while I can be flexible, I’m not big on surprises so I am trying to get over myself and embrace the crazy.  I’ll let you know how that works out for me.

Dean watching the bikes in front of the Aduana (Customs) building.

Dean: Mexico was our first border crossing.  Guatamala our second and I think everything went pretty well.  We were complete in 1 hour.

Just 100 yards into Guatemala, the street is packed with cheezy souvenir shops and

Lisa: Of course he thinks it went well, he didn’t have to do anything except sign his name.

Dean: What the heck, why do you think I brought her along!

Lisa: After about 50 miles or so, I fell in love with Guatemala.  It’s simply beautiful. Lush, green, great huge volcanic mountains seemingly pushing against one another they’re so close.   Gorgeous and most of the road was a dream.  I was super happy to be able to use more of the tires today pushing through big huge fast open sweepers and not having to share the road.  Our topes per mile ratio decreased substantially and that made all the difference in the world.  We did, however, get a chance to see some of the amazing devastation on the Inter-American Highway here. More than 40 people were killed in over 50 landslides 3 months ago during torrential rains and they have only started digging out.  I can’t adequately describe the volume of dirt and rocks still piled up in many areas but seeing 3 or 4 men attacking a site about the size of half a city block and 50 feet high with sledgehammers.  It’s mind boggling but the road is open and functioning well.

The day got long on us again and I’m not sure how that happened.  We didn’t do big miles or stop for lunch, we just pretty much rode.  We stopped to take pictures a couple of times but that didn’t take much time.  But coming into Antigua tonight at 5:30pm, light was rapidly disappearing.  We’ve been told over and over not to ride in the dark, get settled in your hotel early, etc.  Great plan, poor execution.  I was leading and pushing to get into the city since we didn’t even have a hotel.  Best laid plans and all that, the wheels were falling off and things weren’t going to get better soon.

I approached the turn and saw several uniformed and masked (many LEOs are masked here, it’s freaky but understandable) are standing the middle of the two lane road with day glo flags waving a huge line of semis into the road we need to take.  I stop and ask if we may go and they let us into the mix.  Oh crap.  It’s a 1.5 lane dirt road and I am eating dust from the truck in front of me going painfully slow.  Dude, speed up!!  After going maybe ½ mile I need to stop to let him go forward as I can’t ride in this stuff this slowly.  As I come to a stop, my front wheel washed out in a sand pit and over I go, effectively shutting down the entire road.  The oncoming traffic that was hugging the fence line is lighting up my embarrassment and the trucks behind started honking.  Sweet.  An angel on a moped zoomed forward and helped Dean pick up the Stromapotamus but then I couldn’t even get it off the side stand alone.  Holy cow, the front end was simply mired and by now I am completely covered with the fine dust that is everywhere.

Dean: Lisa’s slow motion WeeStrom layover was interesting to watch.  She was stopped but the bike was catty whompuss to the left and she fought it for a second or two then basically got out of the way.   It was a good way for the Wee to take a little nap in all that commotion.

Lisa: Ok, so let’s recover and find a place to stay.  We follow moped angel into town only to discover that cobblestones await us.  Not just cobblestones but very very uneven stones.  I have to remember to take a photo of them in the daylight (of which there was none when we finally arrived) because they are nasty beasts here.  The hotel that we waypointed was full, seems that we didn’t know there is a HUGE festival here right now, something to do with burning the Devil or some excuse to dance, eat and party in the square: we’re in trouble Tonto.

Lisa purchasing a roasted corn at the big celebration. Devils everywhere!

Long story short, Dean found, with minimal effort, MY FAVORITE HOTEL ON THE PLANET.  Ok, so it’s not the Ritz but it is awesome and we got a room before midnight!  YAY!  Casa Ovaile is a B&B run by a local woman and her husband, who could not be more hospitable.  Parking is inside and locked, Dean has a single and I have a double, we share a wonderful bath. it included internet and breakfast, we’re near the center of town and we’re paying $32 each. After some of the accommodations we’ve had it’s such a treat to have a great shower, a huge room, a sitting room and a covered balcony overlooking the town. The decorated Christmas tree in the parlor is also a nice touch.  I love little surprises like this!



17 comments to Day09-Guatamala, Tue, Dec 7, 2010

  • Brian R.

    Gee, don’t know how you guys would look out of place – Tall Blonde (woman) towering over the locals and a Danish guy on motorbikes with day-glo yellow vests, naw…….nothing out of the ordinary here.

    Enjoying the nightly banter – makes it seem like you guys are here in my dining room – except there are no broken dishes on the floor!

  • chuck hickey

    bah – where is the pathos? where is the corruption and graft? what’s going on here and what did you do with my intrepid explorers? Nice room and shower with internet? 32 bucks? come on why didn’t you sleep by the stromopotomus? camping with the posse of masked sheriffs and other constabulary? where is Higdon tension and confrontation? couldn’t you take a picture of the court house or something?
    Ah – but tomorrow is another day and another opportunity to spice this blog up. get with it kids or I’m going to read the NEWS for Christ’s sakes !!!

  • John Parker

    Outstanding commentary. I don’t know how you find the time to blog and ride so much. Lisa must be a hell of a typist. But keep it up, please. This is the best thing goin’ on the Web right now.

  • mariowink

    I here the coffee is great in Guatamala. Thanks for the posts. It would just be wrong for me to retire for the evening without your wonderful reports. Know that you both are thought about. Somehow, this trip seems to be gong a bit better than the dualing Harleys ride. Hugs!!!

  • Ryan Dickerson

    Sounds like you guys are having a great adventure. I have been following but I guess I might have missed an update. I thought there were more than just you two making the trip. Either way I enjoy reading your commentary everyday. I can’t lie kinda wish I could be experiencing the trip first hand. Miss ya! Ry

  • Gary Buch

    great story, great riders, great adventure. i’m loving it. keep up the good work. Lisa, try to keep the bike upright. it’s a basic in MSF course.

  • The she-said, he-said, she-corrects-what-he-said, he-chills running is wonderful my friends! I get the sense today that you’re truly now into your epic adventure and find myself reading your posts twice and sharing with friends.

  • H Marc Lewis

    A wonderful blog, you two, I look forward to every post. The attention you both get there makes me proud of the USA, where a Swedish-looking blond Amazon and a guy who looks totally Japanese riding together on tricked out and loaded down adventure touring bikes would hardly get a second glance. And if they did it would be because of the bikes, not the ethnicity. The USA really is a melting pot!

  • TurboDave

    Lisa and Dean, goodday! Buen Dia!! following you starting 7 December and will continue to do so. Life is a grand adventure and you two are living it to the hilt.

  • Dave Chiurazzi

    I agree – great story – but get used to the scene you just described…as noted prior, I have been to both central and south america / border crossings / the madness that is everyday life in those countries – and then you get outside of the towns and the sencery is just spectacular – you are in for one helluva ride – Thanks for sharing – awesome adventure!

  • jimmyv

    Love the updates and the banter – it’s better than late night with Conan O’Brien. The madness that is everyday life in those countries is what the ride is all about. Like Churro said, you are in for one helluva ride!

  • Puppychow

    Following your SPOT tracks several times a day (it’s slow at work and your blog and SPOT tracker is the most excitement I have going on while it pours cats and dogs outside). I see you guys made short change of Guatemala and are just about to cross over into Honduras…then I keep zooming out on the map trying to anticipate the route you are going to take into Nicaragua, then Costa Rica and Panama and then …..Colombia and Venezuela!!!??? I hope you both have Danish passports.

    You both are in my thoughts constantly! What an adventure! I hope Dean makes a movie out of this one! A Capitalist counterpoint to Che’s commie motorcycle diaries.

  • Tom Botz

    Guatemala and especially Antigua are near the top of my list of favorites. Enjoy!

  • Kitty

    Great stuff guys! I’m really enjoying following your adventure. Sorry that Higdon isn’t there to add some drama, but still glad to follow the back and forth :)

  • KM6UK

    Lisa, Dean,

    You guys are giving me, and other readers the ride of a lifetime. As you know I have traveled a bit, but you guys are inspiring. Lisa, you remain lovely as usual. Dean……….

    Just be safe guys, I want to see the pictures when you get back.

    Dean, looking forward to the party at your house when you show the movies.

    73

  • Jerry W

    I love this stuff. Actually the BR/chickey banter is pretty entertaining too. Not much else to add, but keep it up, you two! Your trip is awesome.

  • Tirzah

    Ha!
    I see you did comment on the fire. And I forgot about the Nescafe in the cradle of coffee and skanky dogs. Everywhere skanky dogs. Love these posts. I agree with the others. This is the best stuff on the net.

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