Fort Nelson, BC, CN to Tok, AK – 956 miles
This morning, I left Fort Nelson in the rain.
Had a frustrating departure situation at the Ramada, Fort Nelson. The Ramada is one of those older units with traditional cut keys. I lost the key. Typically a hotel charges $15-25 buck to replace the key. After going through everything (another 20 minutes) I go back to the front desk and the manager says, “you lost the key! Well, OK. No problem!” That was it!! I think I dropped it while loading the bike and someone turned it in.
Jack Gustafson and I have been exchanging phone messages for the last couple days. Jack is the “Obi Wan Kenobi” of motorcycle riding in Alaska. He’s the founder/original host of MTF’s “Ride Alaska by Motorcycle” forum. Jack has been to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay over a dozen times. When Jack learned I was heading up to ride the Dalton Hwy to Deadhorse, he asked if he can come along. You just don’t turn away this kind of knowledge and expertise. Plus Jack is an excellent photographer. See his work here.
http://alaskajack.smugmug.com/
So hooking up with Jack is important and we are both converging in on Whitehorse. Me coming in from the south and Jack on a ride from the north on the Dempster Hwy via Dawson City. Jack’s last message was that he was going to head up to Tok and then on to Glennellen.
There are signs along the road saying “Bison on Road”
Weather cleared up around noon, Coal River. I’m finally getting some good weather.
The Watson Lake, YT sign post forest
Whitehorse, YT – When I arrive in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory I have “No Service”. It says I have messages but I can’t listen to them. I used a ol’ fashion pay phone to leave Jack a message. It’s 6:30PM, but the sun was high. Haines Junction is ~100 miles (2+ hours). Tok AK is 386 miles (8 hours).
I get to Haines Junction, YT at 8:30PM gas and talk to the cashier. I ask, “What time does the sun set here?” She replies “September.” I repeat with “No, what time does it get dark here? She repeats with “September!” I’m thinkin’ I can ride all night and it never will get dark! First lets get to Haines Junction. The only problem with riding all night in Alaska is … gas. Most gas station’s close at 10PM!
Destruction Bay, YT –I top off the gas at 9:45PM
Beaver Creek, YT – Top off gas at 11:42PM
Alcan Border Crossing – Midnight Sun. The road 100 miles to the Alaska border is in horrible shape! Because of the extreme weather, snow, ice, the roads take a continuous beating. There are many patches, heaves and occasional gravel stretches. Riding requires much more attention now. The various colors all mean a different surface condition. There is asphalt, chip seal, sand, dirt, gravel, mud, pot holes, standing water, rocks, tar strips and permafrost heaves. Not paying attention makes riding very interesting. Also right after you pass the border, there is a large modern gas station with Pay-At-The-Pump.
Tok, AK – I roll into Tok at 1:30AM and find a room. $90/night. I would pay anything to get out of the rain!! Total day’s mileage is 956 miles.
Tomorrow I head to Glennellan to meet Jack.
I’m starting to hate rain…
Really glad you hooked up with Jack. Not just my favorite Alaskan – just a darned fine person (and he has taken some pictures that are absolutely some of my favorites, of course he has a great subject matter up there). Not surprised about the rain. I’ve been up there three times and have had some of my wettest and most challenging days in the Yukon/Alaska. Keep up good spirits and I hope it dries out before you hit the Dalton.
way to go Dean Glad you have company for your ride up the dalton a lot safer way to go. Looks like the weather is not good at all around you hope you find the sun and not all just rain.