Start & Stop: Cuzco, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia

Mileage: 396 miles

Hotel: Hotel Restaurante Oberland, alle El Agrario #3118, La Paz, Bolivia, +591 22745040,  $56 USD, including Desayuno and parking

Fuel: Peru: Best grade 95 = S/16.69 Sol/Gal ($2.33 USD/gal)

Currency Exchange: $1 USD = 7.01 Boliviano

Dean: The weather over the past week has a rain theme [...]]]> Border Crossing #11 – Peru/Bolivia

Start & Stop: Cuzco, Peru to La Paz, Bolivia

Mileage: 396 miles

Hotel: Hotel Restaurante Oberland, alle El Agrario #3118, La Paz, Bolivia, +591 22745040,  $56 USD, including Desayuno and parking

Fuel: Peru: Best grade 95 = S/16.69 Sol/Gal ($2.33 USD/gal)

Currency Exchange: $1 USD = 7.01 Boliviano

Dean: The weather over the past week has a rain theme to it.  We left Cuzco around 7AM and it was overcast and mist for the first 50 miles.  Then then it was blue skies and 12,000′ all the way to La Paz.

We did go over one big summit Abra ?, 14,000 feet.  This was unusual because it had no big climb going over it.  Just a huge valley with a gentle rise and fall on the other side.  Snow on mountain alll around us.  Rode most of the day at 65-70 mph.

Peru/Bolivia Border Crossing

Bolivia Visa = $135 USD!

Lisa: super easy crossing again. Everyone is so nice at these borders, especially compared to Central America. There are none of the ‘helper/bandito” people here because there is no need for ‘help’.  The Peru check-out took 15 minutes, most of which was explaining to Aduano that, indeed, we were going to Bolivia.  Check-in on the other side was even easier.  In fact today the Bolivian Police actually walked me over to where I needed to be, then escorted me into the office to sit down and fill out paperwork for the required Visa.  He then took me across the street to the photocopy place, took some cash over to be changed for me, counted it back out for me and explained the different coins and bills.  He then escorted me to the front of the line to get it all officially stamped.  I could get used to this.  All the while he was discussing the cost of my bike, my really mean looking boots, etc.  After that, 15 minutes in Aduano to get the bikes in and Boom! we’re in Bolivia.

Dean: This is why Lisa does the paper work.  She flutter’s her eye lashes, asks “Donde …” and the boarder officer walks her through the entire Immigration/Aduana exit/entry.  I just make myself invisible and stay out of trouble.

Lisa: We had a hotel in mind and thought we had a correct waypoint.  We arrived at said waypoint about 5:30. Hmmm…this ain’t it.  We move into action, pulling out the book, trying to hail a taxi at rush hour and chatting up some locals.   Soon enough we had a super cab driver escort us the 6 miles to our hotel, even stopping once to come back and ask me if he could drive muy rapido and would I be OK with that.  Hmmm…clearly he’s new to this.  It was pretty funny actually  because he overshot the hotel and took us RIGHT into some HUGE street festival in this little town.  Crazy loud music, street dancers taking up the northbound lane, the traffic sharing the southbound lanes and Dean and I duck walking the V-Pigs through the melee.  Yup, we gots us some local flavor.  No problemo, hailed 2 soldiers who pointed him in the right direction and there we were, safely in the parking lot of our little hotel.  It was a lot later than we planned and very dark out but just a little side adventure to an otherwise easy day.

Dean: Immediately reminded me of “Easy Rider” where the two heros, Wyatt and Billy come into town and end up riding in the middle of a parade.

Lisa: As a side note, I am loving South America. It’s a world of its own here and has a lot to offer.  I think it might be overwhelming to just sort of drop in here from some sleepy suburban home town but even driving in these more southern cities is not as ‘angry’ as, for example, Panama City or even Lima.  Some honking, some lane pressure but mostly OK.  Today we found ourselves on a VERY steep downhill side street, needing to transition 90 degrees to another sloped street with an off camber intersection and traffic coming in also from another downhill street, at 45 degrees.  I was leading and as I got into the intersection I saw a large stake bed entering from the diagonal – I just lifted my helmet and held out my hand for him to stay put and Dean and I sailed through.  Honestly, that wouldn’t have been successful in Central America.

I’m still not a huge fan of the food unless it’s seafood but some of that is my crappy Spanish.  Half the time we have no idea what we’re getting.  Even when we think we know  – I ordered tortillas con huevos, simple right?  Yeah, not so much. I got some weird tasteless biscuit things but oh well.

Dean: Tomorrow, El Camino de la Muerte!

Start & Stop: Cuzco, Peru

Mileage: 0 miles

Hotel: Hotel Jose Antonio, $100 USD, including Desayuno and parking

Fuel: 95: $11-13 Sol/gal or $5 USD/gal

Currency Exchange: $1 USD = 2.74 Peruvian Nuevo Sol

Dean: Our original plan was to get up early go to the train station (1 block away) and board the bus to Machu [...]]]> Spent day getting organized!

The 9,139 miles ride to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay and back was a great Adventure test run.

My goal of Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay is actually the beginning of a ride from the top of the Americas to the bottom … Ushuaia, Argentina.  I’ve completed approx 4,200 miles of this Americas ride.  In December, I’ll continue [...]]]> The Start of the Americas Ride

The 9,139 miles ride to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay and back was a great Adventure test run.

My goal of Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay is actually the beginning of a ride from the top of the Americas to the bottom … Ushuaia, Argentina.  I’ve completed approx 4,200 miles of this Americas ride.  In December, I’ll continue my ride down through Mexico, Central America, South America along the west coast to the southern most bottom of the Americas.

I have a two-dozen things to fix, change, add, delete, before I head south for the end-of-the-road Ushuaia, Argentina.

1. Front end stabilization
2. Re-tune the Power Commander III for much better fuel economy
3. New sprockets and chain
4. New brake pads all around
5. New Battery
6. HID lights
7. Service/inspect clutch
8. ???

Also to consider is different riding gear.

1. Riding outer jacket & pants
2. New riding boots (my waterproof boots are no longer water proof!  I had wet feet every day it rained)
3. ???

The final day on the road!

The visit at my childhood home/ranch in Cressey is always full of memories.  Most of the ranch has been sold off except for 5-acres which consist of the home place.  My dad just turned 90 years old, is in frail health.  He’s in good [...]]]> Cressey, CA to Lemon Heights, CA – 331

The final day on the road!

The visit at my childhood home/ranch in Cressey is always full of memories.  Most of the ranch has been sold off except for 5-acres which consist of the home place.  My dad just turned 90 years old, is in frail health.  He’s in good hands with wife Marlene.

I’m itching to get home so after a quick breakfast with Dad and Marlene, I’m on the road by 6:45 AM.

It typically takes 5 hours to drive from Tustin to Cressey.

I pull up to my garage at 11:45 AM.

I’ve been on the road 20 days.

Odometer Difference

Total mileage, V-Strom Odometer: 8,912

Total mileage, Garmin 2610: 9,139

There is a pretty significant difference between the mechanical odometer and the GPS — 227 miles.  I believe the GPS mileage is a more acurate measure.  Two factors could contribute to this difference,

First, I used a larger rear street tire — 17″ Metzler ME 880 rear tire.  The normal rear tire is a 150/70 R17 M/C 69H, tubeless.  I used a Mertzler ME 880 Marathon 160/70 B17 M/C 73H.  This tire is 160 mm wide and 70% as tall as it is wide – 112mm or 4.41 inches tall!  The difference is .07″ taller tire.  A taller tire results is less miles shown on the V-Strom’s mechanical odometer.

Second, I made a tire change, Continental TKC80 Twinduro Dual Sport rear and front tires switch for the 900 miles of the dirt/gravel/chip seal Dalton Hwy.

Tire Wear

The front Continental Road Attack 110/80 R19M/C 59H, tubeless still has .120 tread depth left.

The rear Mertzler ME 880 Marathon 160/70 B17 M/C 73H has .070″ left.

Like the pack mule heading to the barn, today is a “sit here, twist that” day.

From Issaquah SoCal is down the I-5 south.  Left brother Gary’s at 5:45AM.  Beat the morning traffic on 405 through Seattle.

Gassed at Ridgefield WA, experienced minimal Portand, OR 9AM traffic.  Gassed at Weed. CA [...]]]> Issaquah, WA to Cressey, CA – 850 miles

Like the pack mule heading to the barn, today is a “sit here, twist that” day.

From Issaquah SoCal is down the I-5 south.  Left brother Gary’s at 5:45AM.  Beat the morning traffic on 405 through Seattle.

Gassed at Ridgefield WA, experienced minimal Portand, OR 9AM traffic.  Gassed at Weed. CA with temps near 100 degree F.  Gassed again in Turlock, CA before arriving in Cressey at 8:10PM

The Tanji Ranch in Cressey has a full garage with tools galore, but not much metric.  All SAE for farm implements maintenance.

I checked the engine oil level and oiled chain.

Washed entire bike.  Remove skid-plate to changed oil filter and oil.  Cleaned and oiled chain.  Check tire pressure.

Gary called Harbor View Hospital to try and find Paulie Heydemann.  He is in the trauma center.  We drive over to visit him.

Mary meets us and tells us that Paulie has two fractures in his [...]]]> Issaquah, WA – 0 mileage

Washed entire bike.  Remove skid-plate to changed oil filter and oil.  Cleaned and oiled chain.  Check tire pressure.

Gary called Harbor View Hospital to try and find Paulie Heydemann.  He is in the trauma center.  We drive over to visit him.

Mary meets us and tells us that Paulie has two fractures in his neck, one on his lower back spine, a broken right shoulder, several broken ribs and an injured left foot.  His head is locked in a “halo” stabilizer.  Then the great news!  Paulie is up and walking around.  Paulie recognized me when I walked into the room.  Robert Rainey, COG member from Lopez Island was visiting when we walked in.

While we were there, Paulie was able (with Mary’s help)  to sit up, get his feet over to the side, stand up (with great pain) and walk to the bathroom.  He then walks over to a chair, sits down and has lunch.  It was good to see Paulie with this kind of mobility and awareness.  It’s going to be a long recovery but it looks very positive for Paulie.

Tonight we’ll have a mini family reunion with brother’s family, sister’s family, nieces, nephews, and cousins.

Tomorrow I head south.

Today is a run for the border day.  Not much to photograph.  This part of Canada is identical to Montana, Idaho, Washington.

Left Smithers, BC at 6:23 AM.  Rode east on Trans-Canada Hwy/Yellowhead Hwy E/BC-16.  It’s about 23o miles to Prince George.  This road is under numerous repairs.  There were [...]]]> Smithers, BC to Issaquah, WA – 826 miles

Today is a run for the border day.  Not much to photograph.  This part of Canada is identical to Montana, Idaho, Washington.

Left Smithers, BC at 6:23 AM.  Rode east on Trans-Canada Hwy/Yellowhead Hwy E/BC-16.  It’s about 23o miles to Prince George.  This road is under numerous repairs.  There were over a dozen single-lane escorted construction areas.  Most were 3-5 km long.

After fueling in Prince George, it’s south on the Cariboo Hwy/BC-97 to Cache Creek, 275 miles.  This leg also had a half-dozen single-lane escorted construction areas.

The Cariboo Hwy is a major North/South route and it seemed everyone was on it.  Every form of RV vehicle (extremely high-end luxo coaches, 5th-wheel units, standard motor homes of every size, trailers, and pop-ups), 18-wheelers, commercial vehicles, cars, pickups and of course motorcycles are on this 2 lane road!  It was very slow but the 2-wheeled ability to pass and get around these slow moving clusters is one of our benefits.

Between Cache Creek and Hope this route gets worse as it follows the winding river on mostly 2-lanes.  I cut east on BC-97 east to Kamloops, 50 miles then south on the Trans Canada Highway/BC-5 four-lane freeway.  Posted speed is 110 kph but traffic was moving at 120+ kph.  It’s 175 miles to the Sumas border crossing.  I cross at 7:16PM.

From Sumas, it’s 125 miles to Issaquah, today’s stop.  I arrive at 10PM.  It was a great day!  Another blue sky day.  But the temperature change is very noticeable.  In cache Creek I it’s so hot I ride with just my armored shirt.

My brother, sister and mom reside in the Issaquah area.  I’ll do M/C maintenance and visit.

in 16 days I’ve ridden 7,728 miles.  Guess I should change oil today.

A Run Down the Cassiar Highway

Today was a great day!!  No rain.

I leave Whitehorse at 7:10AM.  It’s 256 miles on the Alaskan Hwy to Junction 37, Watson Lake .

“South To Alaska” – The signpost at Junction 37.  This is the north end of the Cassiar Hwy.  I don’t understand the “South To [...]]]> Whitehorse to Smithers – 768 miles

A Run Down the Cassiar Highway

Today was a great day!!  No rain.

I leave Whitehorse at 7:10AM.  It’s 256 miles on the Alaskan Hwy to Junction 37, Watson Lake .

“South To Alaska” – The signpost at Junction 37.  This is the north end of the Cassiar Hwy.  I don’t understand the “South To Alaska” bit.  Alaska is North from here on the Alaskan Hwy.

The Stewart Cassiar Highway 37 is 450 miles long.  Riding it south it starts at Junction 37 (12 miles west of Watson Lake) and ends at Kitwanga.

I gas at Dease Lake, Bell 2 (Mez Lake).  This is a slow scenic highway.  4 section under construction with escort vehicles.  Longest was 22 km.

The foreground is dark.  I wanted to show the sky.  The whole day was like this!

I had to stop for 4 sheep, another fox, a momma moose with 2 babies, and 1 black bear.  Only the moose stayed on the road long enough for me to take a photo.

“North To Alaska” – The signpost in Kitwanga.

I stop in Smithers, BC.  The Capri Motor Inn at a very reasonable $70 with excellent internet.

I depart Tok at 6:05AM.  At Tetlin (11 miles from Tok) the Taylor Hwy heads north to Chicken, 66 miles.  It’s paved all the way to Chicken then there is a sign “Pavement Ends”.

The dirt and gavel road is very easy for motorcycles and goes from [...]]]> Tok to Whitehorse via Chicken, Boundry, Dawson City – 508 miles

I depart Tok at 6:05AM.  At Tetlin (11 miles from Tok) the Taylor Hwy heads north to Chicken, 66 miles.  It’s paved all the way to Chicken then there is a sign “Pavement Ends”.

The dirt and gavel road is very easy for motorcycles and goes from Chicken to Boundary AK/Canada border crossing)  Canadian side of border crossing is Little Gold Creek.

Top of the World Hwy runs 66 miles from Boundary to Dawson.  This highway follows a ridge top and and has a great scenic view.

It is mostly dirt with patches of asphalt.  The view on this road is spectacular.

This is the only crossing where the US and Canada share the same customs building.

My only rain for the day was on the Top Of the World Hwy.

At the end of the Top of the World Hwy the road drops to the river and a little ferry.

A bridge is planned but many of the towns people do not want the bridge.

Dawson has an incredible history.  Most of the buildings are marked as historical sites.  I only stop to wonder through town and have a quick sandwich.

I’ll come back to stay when I ride to Inuvik.

From Dawson City to Whitehorse is the Kondike Hwy, 300+ miles.  It’s a flat road that wonders over small rolling hills.  Paved all the way!

In Whitehorse I try two motels that were booked and took the third regardless of the cost – $130.  Yikes!  These were downtown hotels and apparently most of the hotels are group tour hotels.  I think if I went to the outskirts it might be cheaper.

I get a somewhat early start at 7:45 AM and stop for gas at the North Pole.  It’s overcast and I’m hoping not to see rain like last night.

It’s 250 miles to Glennallen.  At Delta Jct I take 4 to Glennallen and it starts to sprinkle.  It rains lightly [...]]]> Fairbanks to Glennallen to Tok – 392 miles

I get a somewhat early start at 7:45 AM and stop for gas at the North Pole.  It’s overcast and I’m hoping not to see rain like last night.

It’s 250 miles to Glennallen.  At Delta Jct I take 4 to Glennallen and it starts to sprinkle.  It rains lightly all the way to Glennallen.  At Summit Lake, I finally stop to put on the electric jacket liner.

As I pull into Glennallen, the highway is blocked!  50 or so RVs, cars, pickups are hodge-podge all over the place.  It’s the Glennallen Forth of July Parade!  I take back street to Jack’s.  Drop off Brian’s Continental TKC80′s and pick up my stored stuff and head to Tok.

What a pleasure it was to spend the last week with Jack!  He is a wealth of information about Alaska and specifically motorcycles on the Haul Rd/Dalton Hwy, Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay.  We separate promising to meet again on the road.

I wanted to get to Tok early, check into a motel, catchup on my posts, and prep for tomorrow’s ride up the Taylor Hwy to Chicken, Boundry, Canada border crossing, Rim of the World Hwy, Dawson City, then the Kondike Hwy to Whitehorse.

I’m checked into Young’s Motel which is part of Fast Eddy’s Restaurant.